how to photograph food (yummmmm)

It's hard to believe the holiday season is almost upon us. You know deep down in your heart that it's a little over the top that stores like Target have their Christmas displays already out, and it's not even Halloween yet. Come on, admit it. The other day when I was shopping at Target a blind guy - seriously, a blind guy - turned and said to me "Christmas stuff out already?" That's how bad it is at my local Target.

But man, do I love holiday food. I used to hate stuffing until a friend of mine gave me an outrageous recipe to make one Thanksgiving - now, I would eat an entire casserole dish full if I could. But when it comes time to document my cooking or the holiday meals we've enjoyed over the years, my photos are always kind of blah.

Never fear - Pioneer Woman to the rescue! Click here for 8 tips on how to photograph food - get a tissue just in case you drool over the tart that is featured...

Bon Appetit!

TTV - a tutorial

A while ago I bought a beautiful print of a ferris wheel from a photographer that has a great vintage feel, almost like the lens had been scratched up and the edges of the negative distressed (similar to the one above, by bomobob). Come to find out the photograph was taken TTV - through the viewfinder. Meaning the photographer used her camera (digital, I'm guessing) and actually shot the photographer through the viewfinder of ANOTHER camera. You following me?

For anyone intrigued on how you actually do this, click here for a tutorial on how to create TTV images. If you search for TTV images on etsy you can see about a gazillion examples of what I'm talking about. It creates a vintage, old-fashion look to your photos.

If any of you try this out be sure to send me an email and let me know how it went - I just need to find me a double lens reflex camera at the flea market...

catch light for dark eyes

Both of my little girls have very dark brown eyes (as you can see here). Even so, if you look closely (really really close) you can see my reflection in my little one's eyes.

Most tutorials on catch light that I've seen on the web use blue or green eyes as an example, but don't be deterred if your subject has brown eyes.

Click here for a tutorial on not only how to get catch light, but how beautiful it can be with brown eyes.

"vintage" flair - how I do it

As promised, here is lesson no. 2 for the week!

Ok, I admit - I'm not going to tell you EXACTLY how I do it. I have to keep a little mystery around my photography aesthetic - it'll keep you coming back. But this is first and foremost a place to learn more about photography - that's why I started this blog. So if you ask it, I will answer.

Mary was wondering how I achieved that vintage feel to these photo:





Let me state for the record that any "vintage" editing tricks I will espouse today I learned the old fashioned way - by trial and error. For any of you well versed in Photoshop there is an entire world out there of actions and tricks and edits to create shots that are as vintage as you would like.

These tips are for those of you looking for some creativity using very basic editing skills, so here goes:

1) Play around with the white balance, color temperature, and saturation. Click here to review my lesson on color temperature and saturation. Here is an example:



Here is the original photo - a pail full of straws at the county fair. I love the bright white against the aqua of the pail.



Here is the "vintage" version, editing only the color temperature and saturation. Essentially, I bumped the color temperature WAY up and then dialed the saturation WAY down until I found that balance between the yellow-ness and the faded look of old photos.

This is the most basic way - here are a couple more options:

2) play with tint. iPhoto allows you to change the tint of an image, with a lever that moves from red to green. In Aperture there is a more advanced means of changing tint, allowing you to tint the photo to any color of the rainbow. I used this control in Aperture to change the tint of the ferris wheel photo above to have a more yellow tint.

3) check out this tutorial on how to make your digital photos look like lomo photography (click here for more info on lomography).

A few weeks ago I picked up a vintage 1960s film camera that I'm hoping to take for a spin soon. I'll be sure to post my "real" vintage images when I get a chance...

catch light - how to get it

This is Jack - my adorable, chubby, maddening, sweet beagle. He has some of the biggest hound dog eyes around - don't you just want to give him something to eat? (Hence why he is chubby - that and if you don't give him something to eat, he will find a way to get it himself. Like the time he pulled down two loaves of Challah bread from the kitchen counter and ate them surreptitiously in the back yard, only to BARELY fit through his doggie door because his stomach had expanded so much. But I digress).

See that light reflection in his eyes? That's called catch light - it's the light from the sky above us that is reflected in his eyes. If you look closely enough you can see the outline of me taking a picture of Jack. Here are a couple more examples:



sweet Alice Rose - the catch lights in her eyes are from a window to the side of her.



my little one enjoying her cake on her 1st birthday - my girls' eyes are VERY dark brown, but even so you can see the reflection of blue sky in her eyes.

Why are catch lights important? They give depth and definition to the eyes, which is highly desirable in portrait photography. How big the light is and where it lands on the eyes is directly related to the light source - direct light, indirect light, flash, reflectors, strobes, etc. - each of these will create a different reflection in the subject's eyes. The catch light examples above are all natural light.

Some would say that portraits, especially close ups, are dull and lifeless without catch lights. I like catch lights, but I wouldn't go that far. It's a matter of personal taste and preference. You can even add catch lights post production - click here for a tutorial.

I don't use Photoshop personally, but I do know there are Photoshop tricks and actions used to brighten the eyes - but beware of going overboard. Click here to see what can happen if you get a little too Photoshop-happy around the eyes...

Fingers crossed...today I may have the chance to photograph a VERY newborn baby at the hospital for some dear friends - so excited!

And as promised, lesson no. 2 is on its way...

how to photograph in direct sunlight

It's summertime, and I find myself spending more and more time outdoors in the bright sunshine, camera in hand to capture my cute little girls splashing around in the water. We've discussed how shooting in broad daylight is not the best lighting situation for photos, but what's a girl (or boy) to do when the kids are playing and the sun is high in the sky? Here are some tips:

• find some shade - the easiest solution is to move your subject into the shade of a tree or building to take the photo. You could even try to use yourself as the shade (check out this tip over at Pioneer Woman).
• block out the light - if you must shoot in direct sunlight, try using a lens hood or even your hand to block out the harshest rays.
• use fill flash - click here for my post on fill flash. Flash in direct sunlight sounds like overkill, right? But it makes sense - the direct sun overhead can create some pretty severe shadows, especially on faces. Fill flash can help to even out the light - no more ugly shadows darkening your photos.
• try a longer exposure - for this tip, you will need to work in shutter priority or manual (click here for more on camera modes). The longer the shutter stays open the better chance of getting a more even exposure between the really bright and really dark places in your photo. Try a shutter speed of 1/100 or longer (i.e. 1/80, 1/60, etc.).
• use a filter - a polarizing filter will help cut down on the amount of light coming into your camera, allowing you to use a slower shutter speed (see above).
  

Any questions? Leave a comment.

wanderlust - tips for taking better travel pictures

Hello readers - T minus 5 days and counting until the big wedding. I have the equipment rented, I'm making a list of "must have" photos, and I enlisted a friend for my second photographer to help cover the really important moments. I'm excited at this point - I'm sure I'll be freaking out again come Friday night.

I'm sure many of you are traveling somewhere this summer, and even if you're enjoying a "staycation" you'll want photos to document your "trip." I saw a post over at Apartment Therapy on how to get better travel photos that you'll want to frame for you home - click here for the post.

Happy Travels!

so what is lens flare, anyway?

Lens flare is defined as "light that doesn’t belong in an image, often taking the shape of the aperture, generally caused by shooting towards the light source." Or see the above image.

Most articles I've read on lens flare describe it as a nuisance, a mistake of the novice photographer, something to be avoided.

I love it - as if you haven't already guessed that from the title of this blog. I especially love lens flare when it doesn't overpower the overall image, and when it's not obvious that it was added via photoshop (but that's just my opinion). It can be a dreamy effect.

Not a lot of advice on how to actually create lens flare in your photos - I usually shoot into my light source to try and achieve it. I also look for the sun peeking through trees, above the roof, etc. Like this photo:



or this one:



And in the interest of being an equal opportunity teacher:

Click here for a tutorial on using a low aperture setting to achieve lens flare.

Click here for a tutorial on how to eliminate lens flare in your photos.

how to photograph fireworks

(photo by Stuck in Customs)

The 4th of July weekend is almost upon us, and I'm assuming many readers will be watching fireworks at some point this weekend. I have to admit, the last fireworks show I saw live was a few years ago from the Berkeley hills, attempting to photograph the fireworks across the bay in San Francisco. For those of you that don't know, July in the SF Bay Area can be dreary and foggy, so it was a minor miracle I even saw fireworks that night (although because it was sort of hazy, the photos didn't come out so great). As Mark Twain said: "the coldest winter I ever saw was the summer I spent in San Francisco."

For those of you with clear skies, here are some tips on how to photograph fireworks:

• use a tripod - keeping your camera very still is crucial to getting clear and crisp photos. I'm sure many of you won't be lugging around a tripod this weekend, so consider other ways of stabilizing your camera. I've leaned against walls, used a friend's shoulder, held my camera while squeezing my elbows together. Point being you need to keep the camera VERY still.
  
• use remote release - if your camera is attached to a tripod, using a remote release to take the photos further ensures you won't jostle the camera during the shots. Again, I realize you may not: (1) have a remote (I don't) or (2) want to carry all this equipment to your friend's BBQ. Another option would be to use your self-timer for the photos.

I realize these first 2 points are more for those of you that are seeking out fireworks displays to photograph. So if you are just out and about with your camera and you want to take photos of the fireworks, do the best that you can with the first two points - here are some more general tips:

• use a higher aperture setting - because the sky is pitch black, many of us think we need to use a low aperture setting (f/2.8 or f/4) to get the shot. Generally speaking, the fireworks are so bright you don't need that low of a setting - try bumping the aperture up to somewhere between f/8 and f/16
• use a longer shutter speed - Most people want a photograph that shows the bursting fireworks display - in order to achieve that you need to have a longer shutter speed - potentially a few seconds (another reason you need to hold VERY still while taking these photos).
  
• shoot in manual mode - in order to achieve the proper balance between aperture and shutter speed, you will probably need to shoot in manual so you can adjust each one.
  
• consider a lower ISO setting - generally speaking, the lower the ISO the crisper the photograph (i.e. less noise or grain in the photo).
  
• rethink your composition - I think most of us want to focus our camera on the sky and fill the frame with fireworks, but a more interesting shot might be a more wide angle that includes the area around you. Like the photo above - just a gorgeous shot that is much more interesting than if he had focused just on the fireworks. Another option - consider framing your shot vertically instead of horizontally.

Happy 4th of July everyone! Be safe and sane, as they say...

how to take intentionally blurry photos - wait, WHAT?

I know - this sounds strange doesn't it? Any blurry photos of mine are unintentional - the result of bad focus or too much subject (or camera) movement. So I was surprised to find entire flickr groups dedicated to blur in photos.

When I googled "how to take intentional blurry photos" there were many methods, but the one I found most fascinating was using plastic wrap and vaseline. HUH??? You heard me - simply put some plastic wrap over your lens and then put vaseline, oil, honey, lotion, anything that will create a blurred effect in your photos. My interest was peaked - I had to try it right away!

So here are some comparison shots using a rose in my garden - note these are all straight out of the camera (i.e. no editing done):
no filter over the lens (I am using my 50mm/f1.4 lens, ISO 200, aperture set to 2.5, shutter speed at 1/4000)

plastic wrap over lens (secured with a hair tie - I am so MacGyver!) - slightly blurry look.

plastic wrap + tiny bit of aquaphor.

Thoughts? I'm curious to read your reaction to this technique. I'm a skeptic, but I have to admit after checking out some of the photos over at this flickr group, I think they are very interesting. Some are beautiful, and some...just look out of focus to me.

Happy weekend everyone!

how to take better candid photographs

It's been a while since my last "how-to" post. I've got wedding photography on the brain, and I know for my taste, I love candid photos. The best photos taken at my own wedding were the ones I didn't know were being shot. Photos of me laughing, interacting with my guests, just enjoying my wedding day. I also love the photos of my kids that are not posed, but more natural and "in the moment" (which is a good thing with a 14 month old that has no interest in standing still...)

Without further ado, here are some tips for better candid photos:

• use a long zoom lens - the further away you are from your subject, the better your chances of capturing them in a candid moment. And your subject won't be so aware that there is a camera in their face...
• have your subject keep busy - people doing something are inherently more interesting (from a photography standpoint) than people sitting still or just standing there. And it's another way to distract your subject from the fact that they are being photographed.
• photograph people with people - by photographing 2 or more people you can capture the interaction (laughter, emotion, affection, etc.)
• shoot multiple frames - if your camera has the capability to fire several frames per second, do it. Chances are one of those frames will produce a great candid shot.
• nix the flash - this should be the unofficial mantra here at LF headquarters. For any camera shy subjects, the flash only emphasizes the fact that yes, they are being photographed - and they may retreat into hiding. By upping the ISO and opening your aperture, you can even get that perfectly grainy photo that (in my opinion) makes for a great candid photo. (Click here if you missed this discussion).
• shoot from the hip (literally) - changing your perspective definitely adds to the "candidness" of the shot. Many times I will shoot from a feline perspective (i.e. low to the ground) just to see what I come up with. I promise you, however, if you see me shooting low to the ground that I am NOT trying to peek up your skirt. I'm just sayin...
  

Any questions? Leave me a comment or drop an email.

how to take better landscape photographs

Some of you might be thinking "seriously, Melissa? Can't everyone take a picture of a pretty view? Can we move on to something more difficult, please?" Well, yes, most of us can pick up a camera and take a picture of a lovely vista, but is it interesting? Admit it, we've all seen our fair share of travel photos that are just so-so. I think it's actually more difficult to take a typical landscape photograph and make it not-so-typical. I know I personally struggle with this - many of my landscape photographs are just kind of blah (to me, anyway). I do like this photo of Mendocino but only because of the mistakes I made - the foreground is underexposed and there is lens flare in the upper left corner - but these make the photograph more interesting. (As an aside I actually like when lens flare shows up in my photographs, hence the name of this blog. But I digress...) I would like to deliberately take better landscape photographs, especially during my next trip to Kauai (which is hopefully sooner rather than later. We'll see...)

So here are some basic tips for better landscape photos:

1. find the light - this seems to be a consistent theme here at Lens Flare...The right light can bring about an amazing landscape photo. Advice on the Internet is consistent - the 30 minutes before and after a sunrise and/or sunset are the best light for landscape photos.
   
2. Choose different vantage points - oftentimes our landscape photos are from the same vantage point that anyone and everyone else has. Change it up - kneel down, walk around. See if there's another view that not everyone's seeing.
   
3. Creative compositions - remember the rule of thirds? Vary the horizon line in your photograph by placing it in the top third or bottom third. Perhaps look for interesting patterns or colors that you can focus on in your photo.
   
4. Pay attention to detail - make sure you're not photographing something you would rather not be in the picture - a trash can (which happened to me in Spain...), a power line, a person running into the photo, etc.
   

These tips apply to any photographer using any camera, but for those of you using SLRs:

1. Smaller aperture - the smaller the aperture the greater the depth of field. Try using f16 or f22 so your image is as sharp as possible. (Also try lower ISO settings, like 100 or 200).
2. Use a tripod - using such a small aperture may result in a very slow shutter speed where a handheld image won't be possible (meaning it will come out blurry).
3. Try a filter - a filter such as a polarizer creates saturated color and enhances skies. (In fact, I should do an entire lesson on filters...) I know many of you will edit your photos after the fact, but a filter allows you to see the possibilities of the landscape as you're shooting it.
   
4. Wide angle lens - I would love one of these lenses for the next time I'm in Kauai. Click here for a brief primer on wide angle lenses.

Here is a different landscape photograph taken on my trip to Spain a few years back. I probably have about 8-10 shots of this village, all landscape (i.e. horizontal). This one is my favorite, though. I thought the composition turned out nicely, with the repetition of the diagonal lines in the photo (see the clouds, the mountains, and the village). The fact that the image is technically "portrait" makes it more interesting (to me).

Have a landscape photo you'd like to share? Email me (see above) or leave me a comment.

How to Photograph a Sunset (or Sunrise)

This gorgeous sunset photo from Carrie was the inspiration for this week's lesson (which I realize is late - I apologize). Believe it or not, there is more to photographing a sunset than simply finding a nice spot to wait for the sun to set. There are many articles on the topic, but I found this one the most descriptive:

Composing your shot is probably more important than the sunset itself. If I'm honest, I have hundreds of sunset photos that are just ho-hum. Here's an example:


Bor-ing, if I say so myself. Before you decide to take a sunset photograph, you actually need to do some homework:

• check the weather report
• investigate where you will be taking your sunset shot
• know when the sun is actually setting that day
• look at the sky 20-30 minutes beforehand
• consider photographing AFTER the sun has set, for more intense colors
  

In my opinion, the biggest problem with my sunset shot is that the composition is boring - no clouds in the sky, nothing in the shot is interesting (no silouettes of a sailboat or a pier). By doing a little thinking beforehand, your sunset photo will be much more interesting.

You also want to decide the focal length of your lens (for those of you using a SLR) - a long focal length (read: telephoto) will produce an image that highlights the sun:

A shorter focal length (read: wide angle) highlights the colors in the sky, and the sun itself is very small (or not even there):

Photo credits: Roie Galitz

Now for some logistics:

1. Don't forget the rule of thirds (click here for my previous lesson) - what makes Carrie's sunset photograph so interesting (among other reasons) is that the sky is the focal point, and is not centered in the photograph (the horizon line is in the lower third of the photo). Whether you want to highlight the sky or the sea/land below it, make sure you use the rule of thirds to create an interesting look.
   
2. Make sure you are in focus: it is difficult for your autofocus to focus on the sky (lack of contrast) - set your camera to manual focus and set the focus distance to infinity.
3. If you're using a SLR, use manual or aperture priority setting to set the lowest number, to ensure the greatest depth of field (the portion of the scene in your photograph that appears sharp - don't worry this is an upcoming lesson).
   
4. Again, for the more experienced SLR users, adjust your exposure meter to purposefully underexpose your photograph, which will result in even more vivid colors. On my camera, the exposure reading is right on top, and it acts like a level - the photo is exposed properly if there are no bars showing, and it's underexposed if there are bars to the right of middle. If this doesn't make sense, leave me a comment and I'll post a picture of my exposure meter.
   

Now go out and enjoy a beautiful sunset! Wintertime sunsets at the beach are some of the most beautiful...

Taking Better Pics of Your Kids - Look for the "Right" Light

Since last week's lesson was more technical, I thought this week I would keep it simple.

I remember my wedding photographer's rule of thumb: when photographing a wedding, always use flash - when photographing children, NEVER use flash. Of course there are exceptions to the rule, but I admit that my favorite pictures of my girls were taken without flash.

A while back I bought How to Photograph Your Baby by Nick Kelsh. He writes that the "right" light to photograph your children can be found almost anywhere in your home. In a nutshell, you are looking for indirect light - light that pours in a window or an open door. Not the direct sunlight you find in your backyard or at the park in the middle of the day. If you can position your baby (or older one) so that one side of your baby's face is in the lght and the other is in the shadows, voila! You have a (possible) masterpiece.

Some examples of where to find this indirect light:

doorways
front porch
garage
car
window

I know some of these sound strange, but I have taken pictures of my kids in the car in the garage, and it was great light. Here's a couple of examples of getting the "right" light from my own personal photos:

I took this picture of my (now) 3 year old when she first woke up in the morning. I love the morning sun on the side of her face.


This is in an upstairs bedroom in the late afternoon. You can see the light pouring in from the window behind my baby girl. No shadows like the picture above, but I love the softness and the colors.

Taking Better Pics of Your Kids - CHEEEESE!

How to take better pics of your kids is a topic I could spend many weeks on (and probably will, I'm sure). I did have one specific question from one of you out there: how can I get my kids to look at the camera AND smile on cue?

Ahh, if I knew the slam-dunk answer to this I would be the Annie Liebovitz of children's photography. But here are some suggestions (click here for the full discussion on Flickr):

• get down on their level - sit on the ground, lie down - you'll get a much better picture if your kids can connect with you on their level.
• show them the pictures you are taking (this is the one my daughter loves).
• put a stuffed animal on your head and ask your kids to blow it off. Then nod your head and when it falls, (usually?) you'll get a smile.
• take pictures at funny angles (between your legs, over your shoulder) and then alternate with "real" pictures inbetween.
  
• bodily noises or words (burping, farting, "poopy pants," etc. - and don't shoot the messenger if you don't want to encourage these noises, I'm just reporting the facts. Use at your own risk...)

and whatever you do, DON'T ask your kids to say cheese, or you will probably get that terrible smile you HATE.

Let me know if any of these work for you...

Extra Credit: Photographing Chrismtas Lights

I don't know about you, but I seem to have numerous Clark Griswold wannabes living around me. That, and I know of several friends that are visiting various "candy cane lanes" and the like this weekend.

So in the spirit of Christmas, today's extra credit is photographing Christmas lights. Last year we went to Disneyland around the holidays, and all of my photographs of the beautiful lights & decor at night were dull and boring. So I was excited to find this blog post specifically on the subject.

In a nutshell:

1) the best time to photograph the lights is around sunset, not when it's pitch black.

2) include as much sky as possible in your photograph (don't forget the rule of thirds!)

3) for those of you with digital SLRs - set your white balance to tungsten lighting, as the Christmas lights are "tungsten balanced." (FYI tungsten lighting = light produced by either photofloods or domestic illumination, it is warmer than normal daylight). Since we haven't really discussed specific camera settings, email/comment if you need help with this.

4) use something to steady your shot, like a tripod, a bean bag, or lean up/on/against something solid (wall, car, etc.)

I'm going to try it this weekend, and I'll post my results (good and bad...) - let me know how it goes for you!